langkawi magazine
Archives SECTION
Langkawi - an Asian Paradise
When traveling - particularly in Asia - you should always be open to surprises. But I was completely unprepared for what I saw as my driver sped along the winding road through the tropical jungle growth on the island of Langkawi, off the northern coast of Malaysia.
As the car left the green walls behind and moved past a remote beach area called Patai Kok, there loomed up ahead of us the golden spires and peaked roof of a grand temple. Even with my limited knowledge of Asian architecture, I knew that the design of the structure just wasn't something related to the local religion. It was totally out of place.
The driver slowed down and as we got closer I realized that there was no depth to the structures. They were just facades. I was staring at an elaborate movie set. My driver smiled understandably and explained. This was one of the major location sets for the film Anna and the King. Jodie Foster and the director are staying just up the road at the Datai resort, the driver proudly pointed out.
Clearly the Hollywood production people were on to something that even the most adventurous American tourists are yet to discover - that Langkawi Island is one of those special but relatively unknown international resort destinations.
Its location admittedly works both to its advantage and disadvantage. You have to have a good map to spot it in the Straits of Malacca, at the northern tip of Malaysia and some 18 miles away from the coastal city of Kuala Pertis. In fact, it's closer to the southern tip of Thailand than it is to Malaysia.
This certainly takes Langkawi off the proverbial beaten path, which means that it is uncrowded and not overdeveloped. It's also small, only 79,000 acres, with a population of some 71,000. No visitor need worry about the level of accommodations, though. Several of its resorts are among the most exclusive and elegant in Southeast Asia.
When it comes to scenery, Pulau Langkawi, the largest of a chain of 99 mostly tiny and all but four uninhabited islands, more than holds its own. The island vista from, say, the beach at the Sheraton Perdana is as breathtaking as any in Tahiti.
Local authorities are fully aware that they have something special in the natural beauty and work hard to keep it that way. While these are beach resorts, many of the usual recreational activities found at similar destinations are outlawed here.
In the main Kuah beach area you won't find jet skis, speedboats, parasailing, banana boats and other powered marine recreational vehicles, for example. These only bring noise and air and water pollution and so are banned.
Despite its appeal to visitors seeking a true tropical getaway, Langkawi has lagged economically behind most of mainland Malaysia. As one way to generate tourism at least from the domestic market, the Malaysian government several years ago made the island a duty-free destination.
As a result, residents, particularly from the two nearby mainland provinces of Kedah and Perlis, hop the regular ferryboats across to Langkawi and there enjoy duty-free shopping with enthusiasm. Foreign visitors, however, are less inclined to purchase radios, TVs and appliances, but are attracted to such local or regional products as batik garments, wooden handicrafts, Langkawi crystal and local art works.
Designer fashions and accessories, resort wear, perfumes, luggage, pewter and other items are available in a series of individual shops. Within the Underwater World is the Zone Shopping Paradise Duty Free Centre that offers a wide variety of watches, jewelry, cosmetics and other imported goodies. Another center for similar shopping is in Kuah Town, the island's main community (population 10,000) and the port where the ferries from mainland Malaysia dock.
Most foreign visitors, however, get to Langkawi by air. It's just a 55-minute hop from Kuala Lumpur International via Malaysia Airlines, whose schedule offers five flights a day in 737s, offering both business and coach-class seating.
Once there visitors discover plenty of white sand beaches, scuba and snorkeling at the Marine Park on the nearby island of Pulau Payar, golf and accommodations at such top-drawer properties as the secluded Datai with 112 private villas, rooms and suites and equally exclusive The Andaman with 188 rooms and suites. Those two resorts share the Golf Club, Datai Bay. The 18-hole course, par 72, not only gives players challenging play but some spectacular views, the rainforest at one side and coastal sweep on the other.
Elsewhere on the island is the Langkawi Golf Club and the Gunung Raya Golf Resort. This being an island, it's popular with recreational sailors. They hang out at the Royal Langkawi Yacht Club located down at the island's southern end, near Kuah Town. While it is a private club, it welcomes guests to its public spaces. These include the popular Charlie's Place Restaurant & Bar, the Boutique and the Pool Room.
The Yacht Club also has two boats available for charter. The Puteri Maimunah is a 52-foot Gallart that sleeps 12. It comes equipped with a professional skipper and engineer. For cruising in the immediate Langkawi waters, the 21-foot Trophy is perfect. A professional skipper takes care of operations while guests enjoy sport fishing and just sunbathing on deck. Just one thing: tempting as it may be, topless sunbathing is strictly forbidden. This is, remember, a Muslim country.
Langkawi 2004
